Ireland part 4 — Return to Dublin

I arrived back in Dublin early Saturday afternoon, and checked into my new B&B, the Gate Lodge Guest House. I chose it for its proximity to Heuston Station, where I arrived on the train from Cork. Since I was only staying one night, that seemed to be a convenient location. Being in a new hotel in a different part of the city made me feeling like I was visiting an entirely new place. This was a small family owned guest house and the owner Gráinne was very sweet and accommodating. Since I only had a short time remaining for my trip, I set out immediately to do as much as I could.

Nearby was the Irish Museum of Modern Art. Unfortunately, the main part of the museum was closed and there was only a small photography exhibit to see. The museum is situated on the grounds of the Royal Hospital Kilmainham, an old retirement home for army pensioners and has a beautiful garden, so it was nice to just walk around, despite being able to view much art. From there it was a short walk to Kilmainham Gaol, which is an old jail. Even though this is a very popular tourist destination, I originally wasn’t all that interested in going, but I decided to check it out because it was so close. I am glad I went, as this is an important site in Irish history, in particular the 1916 Easter Rising against British rule. In the same area is Phoenix Park, a very large and beautiful park. Following the visit to the jail, I strolled through the park before returning to the hotel to rest and plan my evening activities.

I decided to have dinner in the area. Across the street from my hotel were 2 pubs that both served food. I chose Ryan’s, based on the simple fact that the menu appeared more interesting than that of the other pub. I was given an option of eating in the bar area or the restaurant, chose the upstairs restaurant and was pleasantly surprised to find myself in a very pleasant and sophisticated steakhouse setting. Seating next to me was a couple who very clearly appeared to be from New York. Toward the end of the meal, I started talking to them and sure enough, they were also New Yorkers. Furthermore, in the course of conversation, I figured out that the woman, Susan, was one of my professors in social work school over 20 years ago. This is one of those crazy things that tends to happen to me. Thinking about the encounter, I realized one reason that these things happen to me is because I will talk to just about anybody I meet. I also have learned that being open to conversation with total strangers both helps to keep me from getting lonely when I travel alone and also enriches the experience. Following dinner I decided to have a drink at the pub below the restaurant. One thing that happened during this trip was that I conquered my fear of going to bars by myself. If there is any place where that is pretty easy to do, it is Ireland. I probably still wouldn’t do it in New York.

Sunday morning the museum that I had planned to visit was closed, so instead I walked to the center of Dublin to do a little shopping and just stroll around. A few people had recommended that I go to an old café on Grafton Street called Bewley’s to see the beautiful stained glass windows by the artist Harry Clarke. They were definitely worth seeing and it turned out to be a nice spot to have a coffee and relax for a little while before leaving Dublin.

Before too long, it was time to go back to the hotel and then get the bus to the airport for my trip back home. It’s funny, but Ireland hadn’t really been on my radar and I ended up booking the trip basically because I came across a cheap airfare when researching a trip to Amsterdam that didn’t happen. Sometimes things just come together in a very organic way and work out better than with a whole lot of anticipation.

Ireland part 3 — Irish Country Living

In March 2011, while traveling in Costa Rica, I stayed 2 nights in a small B&B in a fairly remote part of the country, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, a destination favored mostly by birdwatchers. While there, I met Nick and Karen, a British couple living in Ireland. We hit it off, and they invited me to stay with them if I were ever in Ireland. I remember telling them not to say that if they weren’t serious, because I might just show up at their doorstep some day. When I began to research this trip, I emailed Karen to let her know my plans, and thought that even if they didn’t really want me to stay in their house (after all, we only knew each other for about 2 days, and that was over a year ago), maybe they would be willing to show me around a bit or at least give me some suggestions and recommendations. As soon as Karen and I began emailing, she reiterated their offer and invited me to stay with them or as long as I wanted. That is how I came to stay in Clonakilty for 3 days and experience what is undoubtedly the highlight of this trip.

Karen arranged for her and Nick to come and pick me up at my B&B in Cork on Wednesday morning. I had volunteered to take a bus to Clonakilty but they were insistent that they would come and get me. This was only the beginning of the wonderful hospitality that they displayed for the duration of my visit.

We set off from Cork to Clonakilty via Kinsale, a small scenic town on the southern coast of Ireland. It was a cold and rainy day but we strolled around the market in Kinsale and stopped at a lovely café so I was able to enjoy my time there despite the weather. Then we headed to Karen and Nick’s home, which was fabulous–the quintessential English country house set in the stunning Irish countryside, complete with a lovely garden and an adorable cat. I had my own room and bathroom, with a comfortable bed with 6 pillows and a fluffy down comforter. I don’t think I could have imagined anything nicer. Wednesday evening we went to a buffet dinner at a local restaurant to celebrate the restaurant’s 10th anniversary. The place was mobbed with local residents, including some of Nick and Karen’s friends. I quickly learned that Clonakilty was a special place, populated with quite a number of ex-pats (or “blow-ins” as they are called) and is known for things like organic farms and artisanal food. After the dinner, Karen and Nick took me to a local pub, De Barra’s, which is famous because Noel Redding of the Jimi Hendrix Experience used to play there regularly.

Thursday morning my day started with Nick bringing me a latte in bed. Really. That might have been the moment I decided that I never wanted to leave. The weather wasn’t great in the morning–cold and rainy again–but nevertheless we sent out to do some sightseeing. We saw the Dromberg Stone Circle, which probably dates to the 5th century, and also includes the remains of a hut and Iron Age cooking pit. It is pretty incredible to think how long those stones have been there. We then continued on to another scenic town, Skibbereen, where we had lunch at a nice restaurant where we were able to eat outdoors, since the weather had cleared up by this point. We then stopped at a beautiful estate turned hotel, the Liss Ard Estate, where Nick had to take care of some business related to a bird watching expedition that he was organizing. While he was arranging that, Karen and I got to see some of the rooms of the hotel then we all visited this very unique sky garden they have there. Basically, you walk up some steep steps and emerge in a huge grass filled bowl with a concrete slab in the middle on which you can lie and look up at the sky. Check the link–it is really amazing: http://www.lissardestate.com/liss-ard-gardens.html.

After a quick stop back at the house, Karen and I went to the Inchydoney Spa (http://www.inchydoneyisland.com/) where she is a member. This was a taste of luxury for me. The pool is warm salt water with all kinds of massaging jets. Karen swam, but I just relaxed in the pool, the sauna, and on a lounge chair with a view of the beach. I was so relaxed when we left there. By the time we got back to the house, Nick already had dinner prepared–lamb chops from the local butcher, along with broccoli and salad from their garden. Everything was so much better than the industrially produced food that I am used to in the United States.

Friday we were lucky to have beautiful weather. After another coffee in bed and then breakfast, we set out for the weekly market in Clonakilty. This was great for me to experience, as Nick and Karen knew many of the vendors and other neighbors who were also out shopping. It is clear that market day is an important part of the social life in the town and the quality of food is outstanding. We bought some provisions for later that day and continued on to the seaside town of Baltimore, where there was a fiddle festival taking place. In addition to some concerts that charged admission, there were also music sessions that were free and open to the public. The first one was on the grounds of a hotel. We were able to sit outside, have a coffee, chat, and listen to some traditional Irish music. We then drove to some nearby cliffs that which we were able to climb and have a picnic while enjoying dramatic views of the ocean and the surrounding lush hills. We then went back for more fiddle music, also outdoors, but this time in front of some bars right along the water. This music was more eclectic–bluegrass, Cajun and I don’t know what else, but really fun. Once that was over, we made a quick stop at a gourmet supermarket and came back to the house where Nick again made a delicious dinner. Before I knew it, it was time for bed and I was hit with the sad realization that my few days in paradise were coming to an end.

Saturday morning, Nick and Karen drove me back to Cork, where I caught the train back to Dublin. I am writing this on the train and although I am looking forward to a little more sightseeing before my flight home on Sunday, my time in Clonakilty was definitely the highlight of this vacation and am so glad to have had this experience. I am so touched by and appreciative of the way that Nick and Karen opened their homes and hearts to me and will always be grateful for their wonderful hospitality.

 

 

Ireland part 2 — A Taste of Cork

Tuesday morning I took the train from Dublin to Cork. It was a fast, smooth trip with wi-fi on board. I had booked my tickets online and got a great fare — 23 euros roundtrip (just under $30), which included the online booking fees. The United States really could learn a lesson from other countries when it comes to train travel. Anyway, I arrived in Cork around 1 PM and it was a short walk to the Auburn House B&B (http://www.auburnguesthouse.com/ ). This is the #2 ranked bed and breakfast on TripAdvisor and I chose it over the one ranked #1 because it seemed to be in a more convenient location for what I wanted to do. The place is lovely and the owners, Olive and Kieran, could not be more helpful and friendly. I was extremely happy with my choice. As soon as I arrived, Olive offered me a drink and brought out some maps and brochures to help me plan my day, I followed all of her suggestions and was not disappointed with any of them.

The one thing that I knew I wanted to do in Cork was visit the English Market, an old fashioned food market. I made that my first stop, browsing the different vendors then having lunch at a café on the mezzanine of the market, where I was able to see all of the activity down below. Next I decided to do a self-guided walking tour of a part of Cork called Shandon, which is a historical area and was important in the butter trade in the 1800s. I skipped the butter museum but did encounter the cutest old man in the cutest old fashioned candy store while doing tour. Seriously, he could have been out of central casting.

After that, I took another of Olive’s suggestions and went to the Vision Centre, which is an old church converted into an art gallery. There was an exhibit there called “Happy Hour” featuring clever and funny works by a Czech cartoonist named Jiri Silva.

I also walked to the other side of the city to see University College Cork, which has a stunningly beautiful campus. After that it was time to head back to the B&B to rest and plan my evening activity.

I decided on dinner at a restaurant called Gourmet (Burger) Bistro. I was thinking I would eat typical Irish food in a pub but instead I had an organic lamb burger with Brie. Not terribly Irish, but very good. There was traditional music at nearby pub called Sin É, and although I am not usually comfortable going to bars by myself, I decided to overcome my fear and try it. I got there a bit before the music started so I could stake out a good spot. There were probably more tourists than locals, making it not quite the authentic experience I was expecting but the music was very good and despite only talking a little bit to one older Irish man sitting next to me, I am glad that I decided to take a chance and go.

One of the great things about staying in B&Bs rather than hotels, is that the included breakfasts are usually very good. This was certainly the case at Auburn House, with quite a large selection beyond the now-expected heavy Irish breakfast. Instead I was able to have eggs with smoked salmon (or what I would call lox) accompanied by conversation with a music professor from Oregon. Cork is known as a kind of foodie destination and in my visit of under 24 hours it didn’t disappoint.

Ireland part 1 — Fun in Dublin

I arrived in Dublin on Saturday morning and will leave tomorrow (Tuesday) morning for Cork. I was afraid that I would feel rushed with only 3 days but it turned out to be a good amount of time to get to know the city. I had booked a few things before I got here and also left some unscheduled time and it worked out to be a good balance of planning and spontaneity.

My flight landed about 9:30 AM on Saturday, around an hour late. I had hoped to sleep more on the plane than I did, but due to 3 different crying babies, that wasn’t meant to be. I took a bus from the airport, and with the help of very detailed directions from someone on the TripAdvisor Dublin forum, I found my B&B, the Parkway Guesthouse, with a minimum of difficulty. I was so exhausted when I arrived around 11AM that I was really hoping I could just check in and take a nap, but my room wasn’t ready yet, so instead I set off in search of food. I found a small restaurant nearby where I decided to order a “small” Irish breakfast. This consisted of an egg, sausage, what looked to me like ham (but is considered bacon), mushrooms, baked beans, cooked tomatoes, toast and something called pudding but is actually nothing like pudding. It looks like a fried patty and I believe it has some kind of meat in it. I’m still not quite sure what it is but really didn’t like it. Shortly after I returned to the hotel, my room was ready. By this point, I decided it made more sense to start exploring rather than to take a nap.

My hotel is located in what is considered to be not a nice part of Dublin, north of the river Liffey, although it seems quite safe to me. I wandered around the city for a while, eventually heading to my first scheduled activity, a meeting with an ambassador from the City of a Thousand Welcomes program (http://www.cityofathousandwelcomes.com/). This organization matches visitors with a local person to spend some time together. I am completely embarrassed that I don’t remember the name of my ambassador (I am using jet lag as my excuse for that). I had a choice of going to a microbrewery, a trendy café or to have coffee at a high end hotel. I chose the Merrion Hotel, and it was truly a lovely setting in which to relax get to know a local person. The venues all participate with the organization and there is no charge to either the volunteer or the visitor.

Following the visit, I walked around Dublin some more, contemplating going into a pub for dinner and maybe to listen to some live music, but there was some important soccer match on and every place I saw was unbelievably crowded. I also couldn’t really imagine a meal of heavy Irish food after the enormous breakfast I had eaten, so instead I ended up at a little Venezuelan hole in the wall, where I had an arepa for dinner. Certainly unexpected, but what can I say–I guess wherever I am in the world, I am drawn to all things Latino! Then I strolled around a bit more before heading back to the hotel and crashing by 10 PM.

Sunday morning I woke up refreshed and well rested. The breakfast at the hotel was similar to what I had eaten the day before–I have now decided that sausage and ham in the same meal are completely redundant. At breakfast, I met a lovely woman from Sweden, Sofia, who is working on a PhD in the south of Ireland and was spending the weekend in Dublin. We had different plans for the day, so we parted after breakfast. I headed first to a small art museum near my hotel, the Dublin City Gallery. It was a good place to spend about 20 minutes, since I really wasn’t familiar with any of the artists. Also nearby was the Garden of Remembrance, which is a small memorial park. Next I decided to do a tour of Trinity College. I really enjoyed the tour, which was led by a young history student, who had a good sense of humor and was very knowledgeable. The price of the tour also included admission to the Old Library and the book of Kells, which is probably one of the most visited sites in Dublin. The library is absolutely magnificent and the sense of history there is truly awe inspiring, The only disappointment is that no photos are allowed inside. At the library, I ran into Sofia from my B&B and we decided to have a late lunch together. We strolled around the Temple Bar area (a very touristy area with lots of pubs), finally finding one called the Old Storehouse which had live music. It worked out well that we happened to run into each other and we spent a nice afternoon together.

My second activity that I had pre-booked was a pub tour for Sunday evening (http://www.ruraltours.ie/). What I liked about this particular tour was that it took you to 3 pubs outside of the city center. I thought it sounded like a good way to see someplace different and definitely not something that I could have done on my own. I tried to convince Sofia to come with me, but she decided not to join us. The group was just 2 young women from Long Island, Tara and Kate, myself and Shane, who is the owner of the company, and was also our guide and driver. He told us that people would be very friendly and interested in talking to us at the pubs, and sure enough this turned out to be true. The first pub was called the Blue Light, and it was in the Dublin mountains, offering beautiful views of the city. The place was filled with locals and no tourists besides the 3 of us. Immediately, 2 guys started talking to us, and it turned out that they had both lived in New York in the past. Then we went to a different room of the pub, where we met 2 other guys, John and Alton. They knew Shane and somehow we ended up taking them with us for the rest of the tour. Almost immediately, John started flirting with me, which was fun and flattering at first (after all, who doesn’t enjoy being called “fuckin’ lovely”?) but as the night went on, he got drunker and drunker, and more and more aggressive, to the point of becoming really annoying. The second pub we went to was the Merry Ploughboy and was a bit more touristy–they bring busloads in for a dinner show–but we instead hung out in the room with the locals and listened to a guy singing and playing guitar. The third place, Johnnie Fox’s, was my favorite. There was live traditional music, and I loved the old fashioned and authentic atmosphere. By the time we were in the van coming back to Dublin, John was extremely drunk and was being quite obnoxious. The best feeling though, was knowing that 4 people I had only met that night had my back. I never once felt afraid that anything would happen to me. Even though the tour officially ends where it starts, Shane had told me he would drive me back to my hotel since we were such a small group. The others all got out to continue partying in Temple Bar, and although the girls had invited Alton to join them, they did not want John come along, so they did a quick getaway when they got out of the van, leaving him drunk and alone on the streets of Dublin. He could still be wandering around for all I know.

Monday morning I slept a bit later and joined Sofia for breakfast before she headed back to the south of Ireland. I didn’t really have much planned for the day and at the last minute, decided to take a free walking tour of Dublin. This was a 3 ½ hour tour, given by a company called Sandeman’s (http://www.newdublintours.com/). The premise is that the guides work for tips only, and I was very impressed with our guide, a young veterinary student from Belfast with a clear passion for history. I learned more about Irish history than I ever could have imagined, and I’m sure I will forget 90 % of it by tomorrow, but it was really a fabulous tour. There were people in the group from all over the world, and despite rain on and off throughout the day, I really enjoyed it.

Next, I had my last pre-arranged activity in Dublin, a visit arranged through Dublin Greeters (http://www.dublingreeters.com/ ). This is part of a global network of volunteer greeters, and is very new in Dublin. In fact, I was only the third visitor they had and there is only one official greeter so far. I met my greeter Aurelie, and her friend Sarah, who is interested in becoming a greeter at 5 PM, without knowing what was planned. In some ways this was the opposite of the City of a Thousand Welcomes, which is very structured and organized. The Dublin Greeters seem to be much more flexible and open. Aurelie had previously emailed and asked what I wanted to do, and I said I was interested in seeing a part of Dublin that wouldn’t find in my guide book. So she and Sarah took me for a walk through an area called the Liberties, and we ending up having dinner at the Brazen Head, which they told me is the oldest pub in Dublin and a place where they frequently hang out. I enjoyed talking to Aurelie and Sarah, who are both originally from France and are working in tourism, and I felt like this experience was like hanging out with friends than participating in a formal program. It is really amazing to be able to meet locals in this way, and it makes me want to volunteer to be a greeter in New York.

So far this trip is off to a great start! I am sure more good times are ahead and am looking forward to Cork tomorrow.